Home > News

Jesse Huey Repeats Edge of Pan 5.13 in Squamish

American sender Jesse Huey has made the second free ascent of the difficult The Edge of Pan high above the Howe Sound on Canada’s West Coast.

The Edge of Pan is on the Pan Wall on The Chief in Squamish and was first freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2011. The route has one of the most esthetic corner pitches on the West Coast.

Sonny Trotter on Edge Of Pan 5.13b in Squamish. Photo Chris Christie
Sonny Trotter on Edge Of Pan 5.13b in Squamish. Photo Chris Christie

The 45-metre 5.13 has thin gear and is over 400 metres off the ground. The five-pitch line was originally climbed as an aid route in 1983 at 5.8 A3 by Jim Brennan and C. Thompson.

Huey wrote on his Instagram: “Yesterday will be one of those perfect Squamish days that I will never forget.”

Jesse Huey freeing The Shadow, one of Squamish's most famous and difficult pitches. Photo: Screengrab from below video
Jesse Huey freeing The Shadow. Photo from below video.

“Over the last few years I would occasionally try The Edge of Pan, a blank A3 corner that Sonnie Trotter told me about after he managed the first free ascent several years ago.

“Yesterday, supported with a ton of positive energy from great partners, I managed the second ascent. It has been a while since I have been that inspired by a route to dig so deep to pull it off.”