Long-Standing US Boulder Project Climbed
Sean Bailey has made the first ascent of Devilution in the Buttermilks, a problem that he said on a podcast is possibly V16
Sean Bailey has made the first ascent of Devilution on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks in California, and said that it’s possibly V16.
Bailey went on a sending spree starting in November with a flash of Slasher V13 and a repeat of Black Lung V13. In December, he made the first ascent of The Doors of Perception V15 before making the second ascent of the high-ball Transience V14. He then climbed Buttermilker V13 before sending Lucid Dreaming, and suggesting the V15 might be V16. He then climbed Spectre V13, The Mandala Sit V14 and opened Devilution.
Bailey spoke about Devilution on the Testpiece Climbing podcast, noting that the low start adds two moves – a hard cross into a big move to the start of Evilution. “It was a special moment,” Bailey said, “that line is beautiful, it moves really well, and it’s right there, it’s like the first thing in Bishop, so the fact it’s been a project for so long, I felt privileged to do it for sure.” He added, “I’m thinking it’s probably V16.”
Bailey was a favourite to represent Team USA at the Olympics this summer, but just missed out on making the team at the Pan American Games last fall. Chris Sharma opened Evilution to the Lip V10 before Jason Kehl climbed Evilution V12 to the top. Bailey’s low start finished up Evilution Direct V11, a more direct line than the one Kehl first climbed.
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