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Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Patagonia Peak

Marc-Andre Leclerc returned to Patagonia this fall for a solo link-up of Tomahawk and Exocet on Aguja Standhardt.

As the Patagonian winter came to an end, Leclerc made a number trips to the famed Niponino camp in the Torre Valley to deposit gear caches. Then on Sept. 20 and during a good weather window, he headed into the mountains.

Marc Andre Leclerc Patagonia
Marc-Andre Leclerc on the summit of Aguja Standhardt. For more great photos, visit his blog here.

His objective was the Tomahawk to Exocet link-up, which includes 800 metres of WI6 and M5+ climbing. During the first two days, he made his way to El Boquete pass.

On the third day, he made the likely first solo ascent of Rayuela, a 550-metre ice smear on the south face of Cerro Pollone. At the summit ridge to the east summit, he turned around due to poor climbing conditions about 30 metres from the summit.

After resting the next day, he climbed the 450-metre route called Tomahawk, which was first climbed by Conrad Anker and Steve Gerberding in 1994. The route climbs to the top of the lower buttress of Standhardt. Much of the famous route climbs through technical and varied chimneys with ice throughout.

From the top of Tomahawk, he entered into Exocet, a classic 500-metre WI5 that was first climbed by Jim Bridwell, Greg Smith and Jay Smith in 1988.

After 12 hours of climbing and some ice mushroom tunneling, he stood on the summit. After two hours of descending, he reached his camp just before dark.

Leclerc said it was one of the best ice climbs he’d ever been on, which was made even more amazing as he was the only climber in the Torre Valley at the time.

His was the second solo ascent of Standhardt and the first free solo. Colin Haley made the first solo in 2010.

Earlier this year, Leclerc made the first solo ascent of Corkscrew 5.10 A1 to the top of Cerro Torre, for more visit here.

– Be sure to visit Leclerc’s blog for more great photos from of his trip to Patagonia.

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