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Mari Salvesen Makes First Ascent of New 5.13d Trad Route

The imposing roof crack features burly moves and technical jams

This month, Norwegian climber Mari Salvesen made the first ascent of her project, Tazlov 5.13d (8b), a huge roof crack near Bergen, Norway. The crux of the route is pulling out of the roof, requiring powerful yet funky moves. A variety of techniques are required including feet-first jamming, bad sloping holds, and crimping on tiny edges.

Salvesen battled with poor conditions on the route throughout the year. The crack is often wet in Spring, too hot in Summer, and seepy in Autumn. She was patient and waited for the perfect opportunity, which turned out to be early December. Her partner, Pete Whittaker, made the second ascent of the route.

Footage of Salvesen’s ascent has yet to be released. You can however, watch Whittaker moving through the crux in an Instagram video below:

Salvesen has an impressive list of hard trad ticks. In October, she sent El Horror 5.13b, an offwidth roof crack in Spain. On a trip to Indian Creek earlier this year, she sent five 5.13 cracks including an onsight of Wapiti and a flash of the notorious Belly Full of Bad Berries. In 2019, she made the first female ascent of Ray’s Roof E7 6c at Baldstones in Staffordshire. The horizontal offwidth crack remains a gritstone test-piece and is one of the hardest of its kind in the U.K.

Some of Salvesen’s other impressive climbs include The Shield C4/A3 on El Cap, Master’s Edge E7 6b in the Peak District, Misanthropie V11 in Fontainebleau, and Byrkjedalsfossen WI5+ 350m in Rogaland, Norway.


You can watch Salvesen grind through the exhausting Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13- below:

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