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Matt Segal Climbs North America’s First 5.14d

Kryptonite is found at the Fortress of Solitude in Colorado. Matt Segal climbed it last month

Battling snow storms and challenging conditions over the last few months, Matt Segal climbs Kryptonite, the iconic Tommy Caldwell route at Colorado’s Fortress of Solitude. Coming away with a send on an icy day in February.

It’s considered the first of the grade in North America, and has been repeated several timbes over the years. Caldwell told MountainZone.com back in 1999 after the FA: “The route also is 100% natural with no chipping or glue. In my mind it is the perfect sport climb with creative movement and interesting holds… Necessary Evil took me about nine days and Kryptonite took me about 20. I am not sure whether it is 5.14d because I have never climbed anything that hard before.”

After Kryptonite, Caldwell sent Flex Luthor at the Fortress of Solitude, but never graded it suggesting it might be 5.15a or harder. It’s since been repeated Matty Hong, Carlo Traversi and Jonathan Siegrist. Hong suggest 5.15b, but after Siegrist’s quick repeat, rumours swirled that it was likely easier than 5.15b, however Siegrist has not publicly put forth a grade.

Watch Segal’s 2023 ascent of Kryptonite filmed by Louder Than 11 below.