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Melissa Le Nevé Sends Action Directe 5.14d

She's the first woman to send the classic Frankenjura route and first of its grade

May 21, 2020
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Melissa Le Nevé has reported on Instagram that she sent Action Directe 5.14d in Frankenjura. “This must be considered as one of the most groundbreaking ascents in female rock climbing,” reported 8a.nu. In 2014, she became the first woman to send Wallstreet 5.14c in Frankenjura.

The classic Action Directe was first climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991 as the first of its grade. It’s been repeated over 20 times, but still stands as one of the hardest 5.14d routes in the world.

Le Nevé, 30, is one of the best climbers with 5.14 multi-pitch and V14s to her name. She grew up in the Vosges and began climbing at age 15 at a gym near Bordeaux. She was the French women’s bouldering champion in 2010 and 2013, placed fourth in the Bouldering World Cup standings in 2011, and has placed second at World Cup events in Slovenia, 2013, and Switzerland and Japan, 2016. She retired from competitive climbing in 2016, after finishing third in that year’s bouldering world cup.

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Action directe 💚. Wolfgang Güllich. 9a. – The classic. The legend. The first. … What a journey … what an inspiring person… what a fight… but also “une histoire d’amour”… everything I searched in climbing. I was hoping this moment wiIl arrive for ages. Never I would have imagined how emotional it would be to clip the anchor. I totally fell in love with the process, to solve the puzzle and unlock this jump. So obsessed that it thought me patience. Years of commitment, ups and downs, hope and many doubts. It would never has been possible alone. The frankenjura community welcomed me with an open heart and I’m so thankful for it. The support I received from Fabian and my friends was the light on this journey ✨ Those magical moments in the forest that fulfilled my heart for 6 years. It was my dream and became @guillaumelevernier ‘s one. He gave me his full support with a genius training plan. Sharing this goal and seeing his motivation helped me to become self confident, to be persistent, and finally give it all in the moment. • 📸 @fabi_buhl , the multiple talented amazing person I’m lucky to share my life with. Also thank you and Andy for the countless hours we spend in the wood ! 🌳 Love #frankenjura and all the people who shared a part of this crazy journey 🙏 @bock.markus who helped me to understand the jump, @dirk.uhlig @laylazz_ @matilda_soderlund @dorokara @f.sattelberger @frank_kretschmann @alexander.nehls @krauss1971 @volkerschoeffl @christianbindhammer @gejostasa @ballisbrain @norbert__sandner @hanneshuch @sammydahlman @sarah.kampf @dbwho @white_van_media @chiara_hanke @christoph_hanke @moritz.perwitzschky @juliansoehnlein @eline_lemenestrel @ninacaprez @moritzwelt_climbing @lenaherrm @_felixfelicius_ @alexandermegos @jenya_kazbekova @dickikorb and everybody I forgot to mention.. • •Massive thanks to my sponsors who helped me so much on this journey @fiveten_official @adidasterrex @arkose.climbing @team_edelrid @deuter • •Believe in yourself, that’s what counts 💚 #bethbyarkose #arkose #edelrid #team_edelrid #climbgreen #livewithoutlimits #adidas #climbing

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Action Directe Sends

1991: Wolfgang Gullich
1995: Alexander Adler
2000: Iker Pou
2001: Dave Graham
2003: Christian Bindhammer
2005: Rich Simpson (unverified)
2005: Dai Koyamada
2005: Markus Bock
2006: Kilian Fischhuber
2008: Adam Ondra
2008: Patxi Usobiaga
2010: Gabriele Moroni
2010: Jan Hojer
2010: Adam Pustelnik
2010: Felix Knaub
2012: Rustam Gelmanov
2014: Alex Megos
2015: Felix Neumärker
2015: Julius Westphal
2016: Stefano Carnati
2016: David Firnenburg
2017: Stephan Vogt
2017: Simon Lorenzi
2018: Said Belhaj
2018: Stefan Scarperi
2019: Adrian Chmiała
2020: Mélissa Le Nevé

Iker Pou on Action Directe