Michaela Kiersch Wraps Up a Wildly Successful Spain Trip
The American climber redpointed 5.15a in Margalef and onsighted 5.14a in Oliana
Michaela Kiersch just finished a multi-week trip to Spain where she climbed in Margalef and Oliana. Over the course of her trip she redpointed a 5.14b, 5.14b/c, and 5.14c, climbed her second-ever 5.15a, and also made her first 5.14a onsight.
Kiersch started her trip by ticking two hard routes at the famous Raco de la Finestra crag in Margalef: Combifetis 5.14b and Victimas del Passat R2 5.14c. Combifetis 5.14b is a crag classic, picking up ascents over the years from Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Ramon Julian, Dani Andrada, Adam Ondra, and Angie Scarth-Johnson, among many others.
Prior to sending Victimas del Passat R2 5.14c, Kiersch sent the R1, which clocks in at 5.14b/c. The R2 ups the grade to upper-end 5.14c. The line is rarely repeated, but it’s seen ascents from Tom Bolger and Diaz-Rullo. The standard beta for Victimas del Passat R2 includes a series of nasty undercling mono pockets. Kiersch was able to switch these moves for some hard crimping that suited her style better.
Her next big line of the trip was Víctima Perfecta 5.15a (9a+), also at the Raco de la Finestra crag. The redpoint of the route was her second 5.15a send ever, her first being the Siurana classic La Rambla in January 2023. With her La Rambla ascent, she became the first woman ever to climb both 5.15a (9a+) and V14 (8B+).
Víctima Perfecta was put up by Spanish legend Ramon Julian back in 2008. Known for his sandbagged grading, Julian originally suggested a difficulty of 5.14c. Tom Bolger repeated the line in fall 2020 and Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeated it spring 2021. Both suggested a grade of 5.14d/15a, although Díaz-Rullo believed the route to be closer to 5.15a.
The route is a link-up, connecting Victimes del Passat 5.14c into Gancho Perfecto 5.14d/15a. Gancho Perfecto has a notoriously difficult ending and several climbers have suggested a grade of 5.15a. “Hardest route to date, especially with a last move crux,” said Kiersch on Instagram. “Lots of blood and tears and self doubt on this one. Longest project so far.”
Kiersch next moved to Oliana for the end of her trip. She ended up onsighting Crimptonite 5.14a, her hardest onsight to date. Adam Ondra also onsighted the line back in 2017. Kiersch then started making progress on Joe Mama 5.15a, but did not finish the project due to a key hold breaking and building physical exhaustion.
“I am so happy to be at a place of emotional maturity within my climbing to be proud of myself,” said Kiersch after her trip on Instagram. “I can be an emotional bully in my own head — constantly questioning if I’m doing enough, accomplishing enough, deserving enough. I work really effing hard every year and every session and it’s amazing to be able to validate that within myself and to have the outcome match the input.
“My biggest fear going into this trip was not being able to express myself and my level the way I wanted. I knew I was in the best shape of my life, stronger than ever, and I desperately wanted to show it. I wanted to have the best trip of my life basically.”
In terms of bouldering and sport climbing success, Kiersch is one of the most well-rounded climbers on the planet. In addition to her two 5.15a’s, she’s climbed climbed three 5.14d’s over the years, including Dreamcatcher in Squamish and Victimes del Futur and Era Vella in Margalef. She’s climbed many V13s and several V14s, including Hailstorm in Utah and New Base Line and Tigris Sit in Magic Wood.
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