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New 27-Pitch 5.13a in French Alps

Pulsations is now one of the most difficult routes up the famous south face of Massif des Écrins

A new 650-metre 27-pitch 5.13a has been added to Massif des Écrins in the Hautes-Alpes of the French Alps. It was climbed by Benjamin Vedrines, Nicolas Jean, and Julien Cruvellier de Luze over several days in 2021 and this year.

They named their route Pulsations, and gave it a grade of ED+, 7c+ max (5.13a) and it ends on the peak’s fourth summit at 3,953 metres. Vedrines is one of the mountain’s leading experts, as he had already climbed over 10 other routes up the south face of Massif des Écrins. He recently soloed Integral of Peuterey in less than seven hours.

Pulsations has over a dozen 5.10 and 5.11 pitches with only a few 5.12 throughout. The final pitch, which climbs a striking feature, is the crux 5.13a. The route has some fixed protection but requires good gear placing skills. Watch some highlights from the climb below.

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