New 30-Pitch 5.12 on Eiger’s North Face
Eiger Renaissance is a new 1,220-metre trad route that climbs up one of the most famous walls in the world
Swiss climbers Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach recently made the first ascent of Eiger Renaissance, a 30-pitch 1,220-metre 5.12 up the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. They climbed the route from Aug. 19 to 24 without placing bolts and only leaving eight pitons behind.
Eiger Renaissance follows a line on the steep Rote Fluh near the routes Ghilini-Piola Direttissima and the Czech Pillar. At the top of the wall, it joins the west ridge at nearly 3,500 metres. For gear, they used two 60-metre ropes, brought two sets of cams, nuts, pitons, skyhooks and a portaledge.
The first ascent of the north face was on July 24, 1938, by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek. The 1938 route is one of the most famous alpine climbs ever accomplished. Heckmair later wrote: “We, the sons of the older Reich, united with our companions from the Eastern Border to march together to victory.”
There are dozens of routes up the north faces, including many in the 5.13/5.14 range, such as Airplane Mode, Odyssey and Magic Mushroom. One of the more popular 5.12 climbs is the nine-pitch Deep Blue Sea, which you can read about here.
Deep Blue Sea
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