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New 5.12 Established on Mount Louis in Banff National Park

It links clean faces between old routes to the stunning right edge of the massive east-facing diamond face

Mount Louis is one of the most famous peaks in the Canadians Rockies, with an aesthetic spire-like summit and a number of must-climb rock routes. In 2021, a new route was added to the east face that starts between the Kain Route and Homage to the Spider.

Diamonds are Forever is a new 10-pitch 5.12 climbed by Craig McGee, Ryan Richardson and Dylan Cunningham. Other climbers were involved in early forays up the big line.

There are a number of stiff pitches, including the 5.11+ second pitch, 5.12 fifth pitch, and 5.11 ninth pitch. It climbs to the top of the famous east-facing diamond wall where it joins The Shining. From there you rappel and climb another few pitches to the summit before the rappels down the west face.

Other routes on the east face include the Kain Face 5.7, East Buttress 5.8, East Buttress Variation 5.8, The Holeczi/Slawinski 5.11-, Homage to the Spider 5.10a, Bucking Horse Rider 5.11 A0, Eclipse Point 5.11, and Painter’s Arete 5.9. For a full list of climbs, visit here.

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