New Six-Pitch 5.14d Slab Climb in Italy
One of the world's best slab climbers has completed a multi-year project that he bolted ground up
Ale Zeni has announced that he’s completed a new six-pitch 5.14d called Wu Wei in Val Nuvola near Passo Broccon, Italy. The fourth pitch is the crux, it’s called Pibe de Ora and is what he called a “highly technical friction slab.”
Zeni said, “this is one of the most difficult pitches I have ever attempted in this style. I hope that other skilled climbers will try it in the future because the route is truly beautiful and the limestone is impeccable. 😊.” Zeni is known for establishing some of the world’s most difficult slabs, including Cryptography 5.15b and Eternit 5.15a – watch below.
Zeni started to bolt the climb from the ground up in 2016 with Riccardo Scarian, it took around 15 days to establish all six pitches. Zeni bolted the 5.14d pitch ground-up without skyhooks. He started to project the route in 2022 and sent it this summer. The pitches go at 5.13, 5.13+, 5.13, 5.14d, 5.12 and 5.13+.
“The best way to train for this style is to climb frequently on slabs, work on little crimps, and improve mobility,” Zeni said on 8a.nu. “I love this style because is not just about how strong you are but specifically it is important to be a good climber, and have a good sensibility and mentality approach. For me, this is the maximum expression of this beautiful sport and also a lifestyle.” He now plans to work an overhanging 5.14d called 9G, established by Adam Ondra.
5.15 Slab
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