New Steep Two-Pitch Mixed Route in B.C.

Shortly before the Arctic weather rolled into the Rockies, a wild looking new climb was added to Field

Gripped January 15, 2024

Before the current cold snap hit the Canadian Rockies with -40C temps that snapped huge pillars off ice climbs at Johnston Canyon, a new steep mixed route was climbed in Field. Found left of the famous ice climb Super Bock, Greg Barrett and Raphael Slawinski made the first ascent of Rasputin Roof.

Barrett reported the second pitch as a “tenuously traverses a slab before a short but powerful roof sequence gets you out to the curtain, and into an absolutely wild position.” The two-pitch route starts up a 25-metre M4+ before following a bolted 25-metre M8+/9 along a horizontal roof to a final curtain. Barrett said to bring a 70-metre rope, a single rack from 0.2 to 3 with nuts and screws. “We both thoroughly enjoyed it,” Barrett wrote.

Barrett has opened several hard drytool lines over the years, and in 2023 completed a new 13-pitch M6+ WI3 in Canmore called Anticipation – read about it here. And Slawinski has been one of North America’s leading ice and mixed climbers for over 20 years. Watch five videos featuring Slawinski below, including a great interview at the Banff Mountain Fest.

Stay up to date on what’s going on in the Canadian Rockies at Rockies Ice and Mixed Conditions here. And Avalanche Canada has improved how to access the Ice Climbing Avalanche Atlas, find out more here.