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Pamela Pack: Bold New R-Rated Splitter

American offwidth master Pamela Pack climbed a new four-pitch crack that has been given 5.13R.

“I’m excited to have completed a project that’s been a tremendous mental and physical battle for two seasons now. The American Horror Story 5.13 R/X is a spectacular four-pitch offwidth nightmare, wrote Pack on Facebook.

“Thanks to Patrick Kingsbury for creating this masterpiece with me. And a HUGE thank you to my PT Leah Versteegen who saw me through a 10-month rehab from a back injury just to get me back on this route.”

Pack wrote about the ascent on Rock and Ice and broke the pitches down to pitch one is Miscarriage 5.11, pitch two is Asylum 5.11R/X, pitch three is Coven 5.12+ and the gnarly 5.13R/X final pitch is the crux.

Pack is a professional climber and surveyor who’s been focused on offwidths since 2008. “I have over 50 first female ascents of offwidths throughout the American West including the first female ascent of Lucille 5.13a (onsight) in Vedauwoo,” wrote Pack on her blog. “Offwidths continually challenge my physical and psychological limits.”

Check out Pack’s blog for stories and great photos

Pack’s Favourite First Ascents

  • FFA of the roof variation of Liquid Sky Indian Creek, UT
  • FA The Dark Passenger 5.12 Long Canyon, UT (Pamela Pack and P Kingsbury)
  • FFA Goliath (Pitch two) 5.12a Indian Creek, UT
  • FA The Soul Assassin 5.12 R Indian Creek, UT (Pamela Pack and P Kingsbury)
  • FA Gabriel 5.13c Zion, UT
  • FA Girls Just Wanna Have Guns 5.11a Indian Creek, UT
  • FA Break A Leg 5.12 Indian Creek, UT
  • FA The Forever War 5.13 R Vedauwoo, WY
  • FA Spatial Relations 5.13a Vedauwoo, WY
  • FA The Event Horizon 5.13 Moab, UT (Pamela Pack and P Kingsbury)
  • FA The Wing 5.12c, Vedauwoo, WY

A photo posted by Rock and Ice (@rockandicemag) on