Shawn Raboutou Makes Second Ascent of Devilution V16
Opened by Sean Bailey in early 2024, the problem is one of the hardest in the United States
American climber Shawn Raboutou just announced he made the second ascent of Devilution V16 in the Buttermilks. Located on the famous Grandpa Peabody boulder, the problem is a low start into Evilution Direct V11, a popular right-exit version of Jason Kehl’s Evilution V12. Devilution remained an open project for many years until Sean Bailey made the first ascent earlier this year. A new send film of Raboutou’s Devilution ascent was just released, which you can watch below.
The low start of Devilution only adds two moves into the V11, but both moves are extremely difficult. “A hard drive by off a bad pinch followed by a long move to the start of the stand,” explained Bailey on Instagram after his Devilution FA. “No texture and very few feet options makes this thing super powerful. First move is the business but linking the two moves together becomes the crux.
“A full body tension move followed by a snappy jump,” he continued. “It’s all about getting the shoulder well enough and having enough in the tank in the right arm to link the second move. I thought it was close to over when I got into the stand. I wasn’t prepared for how pumped and numb I was on the final moves, almost lost it up there. Full value experience.”
Raboutou was the first climber in the world to climb two V17s. His 2022 season was particularly incredible, establishing the V16s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds and the V17s Alphane and Megatron.
Shawn Raboutou sends Devilution V16
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
