10 Must-Do 5.10 Squamish Sport Climbs

Squamish is full of great sport climbs at all grades. If you’re looking for some fun lines in the 5.10 range, this list is for you. Squamish sport climbing arguably shines brightest in higher grades, but you can still find many high quality lines from 5.10a to 5.10d.

While Marc Bourdon’s “Top 100” undoubtedly contains many of Squamish’s best routes, the 10 in the list below come highly recommended. The list includes a wide variety of route styles and lengths throughout the Sea-to-Sky corridor, from Murrin Park in the south to Rogues Gallery in the north. In this list, no two crags are repeated twice, so it’s a real sampler of Squamish 5.10 sport climbing.

It’s important to note that Squamish has tons of high quality friction slab climbs. These pitches are often fully bolted (and often a tad runout!) but they’re not what you’d typically envision when you think of sport climbing. For this reason, some amazing bolted slab pitches are left out of this particular list. We’ll save Squamish slabs for a future article.

Colin de Bin 5.10a – The Pillary

The Pillary is stacked with fun 5.10 routes and Colin de Bin is arguably its best 5.10-. The moves are techy and thoughtful throughout and the stone is high quality. When you get to the chains, take a look around because the Pillary has some of the most spectacular views of any Squamish crag.

Low Impact 5.10a – Forgotten Wall

Forgotten Wall is incredibly popular – and for good reason. The crag boasts Squamish’s shortest approach and it houses great climbs from 5.9 to 5.13. Low Impact is likely the crag’s most popular line. It starts on big detached flake and continues on angular jugs all the way to the chains. The line has a decent 5.12c extension if you’re up for the challenge.

My Backward Walk 5.10a – Rogues Gallery

Rogues Gallery isn’t known for its 5.10 climbing, but My Backward Walk is one worth checking out. It’s found on the northern end of the popular Capone Wall, and moves rightward diagonally up a juggy yet interesting line. A great new 5.11b link-up connects the first half of My Backward Walk into the last half of A Day in Wonderland 5.12b.

Heavy Petting Action 5.10b – Pet Wall

Yes, Pet Wall has some 5.10s! At the far left end of Murrin Park’s Petrifying Wall, prolific new route developer Chris Small has bolted a couple of high quality routes. Heavy Petting Action is a pretty epic 30m climb that’s highly technical for the grade. The view of the Howe Sound from the chains is the cherry on top.

Ants Go Marching 5.10b – Fern Hill

If you’re a 5.10 climber and you’re going to Crumpit Woods, it’s likely you’ll be hitting up the roadside crags of the Playground or Courtyard. If you do find yourself at Crumpit Woods’ premiere crag Fern Hill, a well-traveled wall for its 5.11s and 5.12s, you’re still in luck because Ants Go Marching is one of Squamish’s most fun 5.10- sport lines. The route feels like a long journey, and its moves are engaging but never that difficult.

Jean-Jean 5.10b – Area 44

Like the Pillary, Area 44 is a sector packed with 5.10 climbing. Jean-Jean is one of the highlights and features a tough start followed by intricate climbing up a nice face. Don’t miss the “Top 100” Rocky Horror 5.10b while in the area.

More Than Just a Pretty Face 5.10c – Lakeside by the Woods

This route at Murrin Park doesn’t look like much from the ground, but it’s one of Squamish’s best 5.10s. The holds are awesome and varied, the moves are committing, and the sequences are funky for the grade. Have patience, this short route packs a punch for 5.10!

The Torii Gate 5.10c – Electric Avenue

Electric Avenue is a newer sector in Cheakamus Canyon and one of the best Squamish crags for 5.10 and below climbing. The Torii Gate has excellent stone and a proper crux section that may feel sandbagged to some.

Pan’s Sword 5.10d – Neverland

Neverland is a bit of an obscure crag to the north of the Smoke Bluffs. It’s worth checking out for Pan’s Sword alone. The line works its way up a stunning dihedral requiring solid footwork skills. Some sequences can feel a little awkward, but in a good way.

The Schism 5.10d – The Monastery

After a scrambly start, this line works up a slightly overhanging crack system. It’s pumpy and fun, and a good full-body warm up for the harder lines at the crag. The bolted crack is perhaps a bit sacrilegious, but lets be honest, who is going to haul a trad rack all the way up to The Monastery?

First Ascensionist Information

FA info from Squamish Select 4th Edition by Mark Bourdon.

1. Colin de Bin 5.10a – Don Cann & Andre Lechner (2012)
2. Low Impact 5.10a – Peter Winter (2004)
3. My Backwards Walk 5.10a – Peter Winter (2019)
4. Heavy Petting Action 5.10b – Chris Small (2009)
5. Ants Go Marching 5.10b – Peter Winter (2007)
6. Jean-Jean 5.10b – Andre Lechner & Don Cann (2010)
7. More Than Just a Pretty Face 5.10c – Brad Richie (2006)
8. The Torii Gate 5.10c – Leo Foord-Kelcey (2017)
9. Pan’s Sword 5.10d – Jack Fieldhouse & Pete Hill (2016)
10. The Schism 5.10d – Toby Foord-Kelcey (2017)