Arc’teryx Climbing Academy Delivers Unforgettable Experiences

The Arc’teryx Climbing Academy just took place for its 16th year, and it was one of the most memorable, action-packed weekends in Squamish this summer. There were climbing clinics, film premieres, several speakers, and fun dance parties.

Climbers from around the world gathered beneath The Chief for four days of fun in hot temperatures and under hazy skies. Wildfire smoke from central B.C. blew in and out of the Sea to Sky Corridor during the academy, but it never seemed to have much of an effect on people’s stoke to get out climbing.

Moa Bergström, who’s originally from Sweden, said that she just moved to Squamish after spending five years in Golden, B.C. “I came to the Arc’teryx Academy last year but didn’t know clinics were a thing,” she said, “so this year when they came up we were quick to book it.” The clinic she signed up for was Saturday’s All Things Offwidth Clinic, which took place at the Smoke Bluffs.

Bergström, like many people who take clinics at the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy, is an experienced climber looking to learn something new. “Offwidth is such a specific skill,” she said. “When you’re starting out trad climbing, it’s easy to pick up hand and finger jamming, but offwidth is so specific that you’re not necessarily just gonna go try it when you’re just starting out. There are some good nuggets to pick up from this clinic.”

The clinic was taught by top American climber Jesse Huey, who recently returned from making the second ascent of Cowboy Direct 5.13a on Trango Tower. There aren’t many times in the world of climbing when you’ll get the chance to learn from such an experienced alpinist outside of the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy.

“He [Jesse Huey] showed us what to think about, all the different techniques like chicken wing, stacks, and so on. He explained how it’s a lot about your feet. He showed us techniques and has been coaching us through as we top rope.”

When asked if Huey’s advice has been helping, Bergström said that “yes for sure it’s helping,” after only one route. She went on to climb several more. “The goal by the end of the day is to top rope Split Beaver [an 18-metre 5.10b offwidth at the Smoke Bluffs]. I’m doing this with the intention of leading offwidth, maybe not today, but for sure a different day.”

That was the same story at all of the clinics – stoked people learning about climbing techniques, rope systems, and new ways to improve their performances. Some of the clinics included Women’s Intro to Trad with Nina Caprez, Efficient Multi-Pitch techniques with Luka Lindic, Sport Climbing Tactics with Alannah Yip, Fun on the Rock with Em Pellerin, Adaptive Climbing with Craig DeMartino, Strengthening the Mind with Ashima Shiraishi and more.

When not out on the rock, people came together in downtown Squamish where they could get their used Arc’teryx gear fixed up at the ReBird shop, or borrow a pair of shoes to test from Scarpa. You could also take part in a rope coiling or hangboard challenge, as well as take part in a dyno competition. The evening programs started with a land acknowledgment from Squamish Nation, followed by films and live music. There was never a dull moment.

Matt Brooks, a climber originally from eastern Canada who’s been living in his van in Squamish for the summer, said that he was blown away by the talent that came to town – from 5.13R trad climber Amity Warme to Rockies ice legend Raphael Slawinski. And despite having 15 years of climbing to his name, he’s planning on taking a clinic or two at next year’s Arc’teryx Climbing Academy.

Arc’teryx is a brand that’s leading the way in the world of climbing. It’s helping to shape the future of the sport by making it more inclusive, more accessible, more safe and more fun. They brought together some of the world’s most talented rock and ice climbers – arguably many of the best climbing mentors of today – and teamed them up with those looking for guidance and leadership.

The 2023 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy was a weekend like no other for countless burgeoning sport climbers, trad climbers, boulderers, and so much more. In the end, everyone walked away having gained something. We can’t wait for next year, but until then, check out some photos from the weekend below. And stay tuned as we break down the film premieres, live music and more in a story later this week.

Arc’teryx Climbing Academy 2023

Ashima Shiraishi

Em Pellerin