Nellie Milfeld has freed the famous Freerider 5.13 on El Capitan after a number of sessions projecting the cruxes. She was supported and belayed by her husband Cedar Wright. The first free ascent of the 1,000-metre route was by Thomas and Alex Huber in 1998.
Milfeld, who works as a full-time public defender, started out at 3:30 p.m. on Sunday and topped out at 1:45 p.m. on Wednesday, having bivied high on the wall. The first woman to free the route was Steph Davis in 2003, others include Bronwyn Hodgins, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Hazel Findlay, Alex Morris, Miška Izakovičová, Madeleine Cope, Madaleine Sorkin and Kate Rutherford.
Milfeld was one of Findlay’s first trad-climbing mentors. They’d met in Squamish and after Milfeld sent Flight of the Challengers 5.12 trad at Murrin Park, she pushed Findlay to try. Wright was fresh off making the first ascent of The Dream Team, a new 10-pitch 5.13 on Fifi Buttress. Watch a short film on Nellie and Cedar below.