The Red Arete is a 400-Foot Colorado 5.13c

Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon has some of America’s most classic rock climbs. In 2021, Josh Wharton and Phil Gruber added a new five-pitch 5.13c to the Micky Mouse Wall called The Red Arete. Wharton has envisioned that line for years.

‘The crux pitches on this route are fantastic,” said Wharton. “The first has unusual movement and great rock quality for the Flatirons, and the second has an outrageous position and a fun power endurance style.”

The first pitch is 5.6 and the second is 5.9, but the third 5.13c is described as a “continuous pitch that involves a lot of slapping and palming on the blunt arete.” The next 5.13c pitch climbs past three bolts to an overhanging crack “until it ends at a downward-facing rock tooth that leads back to the arete.” From there, you “finagle your way up this difficult section to a shake, and then climb out the steep overhang to the left to the final dramatic overhanging arete that leads to easier ground above.” There’s a final 5.11c to finish.

Other hard routes at Mickey Mouse Wall include Perilous Journey 5.11bX, Vergin’ on Perversion 5.11cR 4p, Mighty Mouse 5.12a/b, Astral Traveller 5.12d 4p and Red Dihedral 5.13 R  3p.

Wharton on the Diamond