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New 5.12 Roof on Squamish’s Fjord Wall

Every year, Squamish gets a handful of quality difficult, steep new routes and Taran Ortlieb has The White Raven 5.12b to this year’s list.

Paul McSorley and Ortlieb developed a new crag across the highway and 100 metres north of Murrin Park called the Fjord Guard. “McSorley has an R-rated 5.12a called the Beef Eater to the left of my route,” said Ortlieb. “My route climbs into a large obvious century box.”

Taran Ortlieb on his new 5.12a roof climb.
Taran Ortlieb on his new 5.12a roof climb. Photo: Screen grab from below video

“The roof is four or so metres long and you pull its lip on the climbers right side crack using thuggy crack trickery. It goes completely on gear and is probably 25 metres long.” This footage was taken a few weeks before the send: