Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz established the first three pitches of a new mixed route at WI5 M6 on Mount Stephen next to the ice route Twisted in B.C last weekend.
Tim Banfield climbed the first pitch of Twisted and then climbed the next two pitches with Walsh and Kadatz taking photos. Walsh started up the final pitch, but the team left before finishing the route.
On Jan. 31, Walsh returned with Sebastian Taborszky to finish the final pitch and climbed an easier first pitch. They called the route Nasty Habit, after the beer, and most locals had never seen it form before.
The Beer Climbs are a collection of ice and mixed routes that range from one-pitch WI3 lines to 250-metre WI6 classics. The majority are on Mount Stephen and Dennis above the small town of Field.
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The original first pitch is 50 metres at M6 WI5 and is reportedly great mixed climbing with some steep stems using a crack for protection. The second pitch goes up and right for nearly 60 metres at WI2 and ends at bolts. Pitch three is 35 metres at M4 WI4 and follows some rock moves to a shoulder-wide vein of ice.
The final pitch is just over 30 metres and climbs past eight bolts left of the dagger to finish on the ice. The alternative first pitch starts 10 metres to the right and climbs about 80 metres to the bolted station on pitch three.
Here's a shot of me climbing the first of a three pitch new route in Field yesterday. Nasty Habits is just right of Twisted, and goes at wi5 m6. There could be a fourth pitch extension if anybody's keen on drilling their way up some chossy limestone to reach a dagger. Of course in Field tradition, we ended the day with a couple of cans of the Gold medal winning IPA Nasty Habits by #mtbegbiebrewing, one of all time favourite beers! Thanks to @timbanfield for the photo and @michellekadatz for the belay #nastyhabits @arcteryx @scarpana @onwardup_official @petzl_official