Jon Walsh and Michelle Kadatz established the first three pitches of a new mixed route at WI5 M6 on Mount Stephen next to the ice route Twisted in B.C last weekend.

Tim Banfield climbed the first pitch of Twisted and then climbed the next two pitches with Walsh and Kadatz taking photos. Walsh started up the final pitch, but the team left before finishing the route.

On Jan. 31, Walsh returned with Sebastian Taborszky to finish the final pitch and climbed an easier first pitch. They called the route Nasty Habit, after the beer, and most locals had never seen it form before.

Nasty Habit: S - Original start / S1 - Alternative start / T - Finish. Photo Tim Banfield

Nasty Habit: S – Original start / S1 – Alternative start / T – Finish. Photo Tim Banfield

The Beer Climbs are a collection of ice and mixed routes that range from one-pitch WI3 lines to 250-metre WI6 classics. The majority are on Mount Stephen and Dennis above the small town of Field.

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The original first pitch is 50 metres at M6 WI5 and is reportedly great mixed climbing with some steep stems using a crack for protection. The second pitch goes up and right for nearly 60 metres at WI2 and ends at bolts. Pitch three is 35 metres at M4 WI4 and follows some rock moves to a shoulder-wide vein of ice.

The final pitch is just over 30 metres and climbs past eight bolts left of the dagger to finish on the ice. The alternative first pitch starts 10 metres to the right and climbs about 80 metres to the bolted station on pitch three.


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