Top Seven Sends by Alex Megos in Canada, from Firsts to Flashes

Alex Megos visited Canada for nearly a month-and-a-half in the summer of 2016. The trip was organized by Sonnie Trotter, who saw the potential of having one of the world’s strongest climbers visit. Megos brought his new-age strength and training methods to the Canadian Rockies and Squamish, where he made the history books with big sends. Here are seven of Megos’ top sends in Canada.

1. Fightclub: Megos made the first free ascent of the 1980s prow project by Peter Arbic at Ravens Crag on his second attempt at 5.14b. Trotter then extended the route to the top of the feature. Megos worked on the route for a number of days and climbed it at 5.15b, Canada’s first 5.15.

The first day in Canada 2 weeks ago @sonnietrotter bolted this line in fear I wouldn't have enough projects to do. Now, 2 weeks later after working on it for 5 days and even taking rest days I finally got it!!! FA of "Fightclub" 5.15b (9b), the hardest route in Canada to date and my 2nd 9b!!! @redbulladventure @redbullgermany @patagonia_climb @tenayaclimbing @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @aeetechnologyde @cafekraft_nuernberg

A photo posted by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on Aug 15, 2016 at 8:44am PDT

2. The Path: Megos doesn’t often place gear as he climbs, but The Path 5.14R at Lake Louise was too tempting. The classic line was first climbed nearly a decade ago by Trotter and has been repeated a number of times. Megos sent the run-out route on his first try, flashing 5.14R, the first send of its kind in the Rockies.

BÄÄÄM!!! 2 days after doing the FA of "Fightclub" I managed to FLASH the @sonnietrotter classic trad route "The Path" 5.14R at Lake Louise! 40m of fiddling in tiny gear and with a bunch of bouldery sections! Going group up not having at all much experience with placing gear was an interesting and new experience for me! @redbulladventure @redbullgermany @patagonia_climb @tenayaclimbing @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @sterlingrope @aeetechnologyde Pic by @ken_etzel Thanks for the support @sonnietrotter @danielaebler

A photo posted by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on Aug 17, 2016 at 12:56pm PDT

3. Dreamcatcher: The weather was warm and muggy, but Megos made a one-day fourth ascent of Dreamcatcher 5.14d in Squamish. The famous line was bolted by Trotter and Chris Sharma in 2005 and had been climbed by only Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden until Megos sent the test-piece.

This was the only route I knew when I came to Canada! And today I grabbed the 4th ascent of it in one day! "Dreamcatcher" 5.14d (9a)!!! Super stoked to have climbed this world class route! One of the best of all time! @patagonia_climb @redbulladventure @tenayaclimbing @dmm_wales @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @aeetechnologyde @cafekraft_nuernberg Huge thanks to @sonnietrotter and @ken_etzel (pic) for the support!!!

A photo posted by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on Aug 27, 2016 at 10:25pm PDT

4. The Shining: While Megos is not known for his big wall-style free ascents, he put down one of the hardest big alpine walls in the Rockies with his onsight of The Shining 5.13d. It was also the second ascent of the Trotter/Tommy Caldwell 2011 route.

What is Instagram for if not to share our most recent adventures? It only took 22 hours, but we managed to climb our asses up and over Mount Louis on Friday in Banff National Park. Alex of course didn't fall, but did enjoy himself some sweet alpine big wall pendulums. #theshining #onsight #coldasice #2ndascent with @ken_etzel & @alexandermegos @patagonia_climb

A photo posted by @sonnietrotter on Aug 21, 2016 at 10:31am PDT

5. Full Nelson: Up until Megos visited Canada, there were only three 5.14ds: Dreamcatcher, Bunda de Fora and Forever Expired. During his first visit to Acephale, he sent Bunda de Fora after two attempts and made the first ascent of Full Nelson 5.14d in just over two attempts.

Just got to see @alexandermegos FA Full Nelson 14d at #acephale. I bolted this rig 4 years ago and have tried it off and on without success. Such an inspiring line and I'm definitely psyched to give it a more solid effort now! Another 9a in Canada

A photo posted by Evan Hau (@hauonearth) on Jul 31, 2016 at 5:30pm PDT

6. Superman: Despite the unfavourable conditions, Megos sent Superman 5.14c on the Big Show on his second try.

Tonight at @patagoniavancouver come hear the wonder kid @alexandermegos talk and share stories of his travels in the US and Rocklands. It's a hilarious show full of pics and videos. Doors open at 7! Good times for sure! Hope to see y'all there! Image- Alex nabbing the swing on Superman 5.14c here in Squamish. @patagonia_climb

A photo posted by Ken Etzel (@ken_etzel) on Aug 25, 2016 at 11:30am PDT

7. Iron Butterfly: The first new route Megos sent in Canada was Iron Butterfly 5.14c/d, an old project at Planet X in Cougar Creek. It was the beginning of a standard setting visit.

@alexandermegos sticking the "Iron Butterfly" move on his new route at Planet X yesterday 5.14c/d. Strong boy! He fell off higher on this attempt, but got it next go taking advantage of stormy conditions. #Canon5D 70-200mm @patagonia_climb

A photo posted by @sonnietrotter on Jul 31, 2016 at 10:12am PDT