Mount Nemo is one of Canada’s most historic and visited crags. Located southwest of Toronto, the limestone walls make up only one section of the Niagara Escarpment that stretches north to Georgian Bay.

Over the past few weeks, a number of new bolted routes have been added and old ones fixed up. A full summary will be available after the season. For now, here are 10 fun climbs to get on at Mount Nemo.

The Hunchback: A new-ish 5.9 close to A Man Named Guido 5.10b on the Igauana Wall. It’s an example of the fine new routes being explored.

Wide Load: A once-glassy 5.9 that has been slightly re-routed, it’s the best at the grade on the Alfred Wall.

Live Bait: A fun 5.10a also found on the Alfred Wall. Many climbers use it as a warm-up that follows nine bolts.

Red Line Fever: A hard-for-the-grade 5.10b that heads up 20 metres past six bolts. The cruxes are sustained and fun.

Big Bolts are for Daddy: An often overlooked climb that is a good 5.10- warm-up or project, depending on your style.

Swan Song: One of the best 5.10s at the crag, it climbs at 5.10c and has a bit of everything including a sneaky no-hands rest.

High Society: One of the original test-piece 5.10s. It climbs up a steep wall with reachy jugs and shouldn’t be missed.

Palm Sunday: Likely the most climbed and best 5.11a at Nemo, depending on who you ask. A fun arete slab sort of climb.

High Society 5.10d. Photo Brandon Pullan

Mean Streak: A sustained 5.11d past nine bolts up the Central Wall. The crux sections have require lots of power.

Scarface: Likely the best 5.12a/b at Nemo. It climbs past eight bolts and has a number of crux sections.

Mount Nemo


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