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10 Fun Spring Climbs at Ontario’s Mount Nemo

Mount Nemo

Mount Nemo is one of Canada’s most historic and visited climbing areas with great views and fun rock.

Located southwest of Toronto, the limestone walls make up only one section of the Niagara Escarpment that stretches north to Georgian Bay.

Over the past year, a number of new bolted routes have been added to a new cliff at Nemo. A full summary will be available after the season. Nemo is a great spring climbing area as it gets sun in the afternoon and evening.

10 Fun Nemo Routes

The Hunchback: A new-ish 5.9 close to A Man Named Guido 5.10b on the Igauana Wall. It’s an example of the fine new routes being explored.

Wide Load: A once-glassy 5.9 that has been slightly re-routed, it’s the best at the grade on the Alfred Wall.

Live Bait: A fun 5.10a also found on the Alfred Wall. Many climbers use it as a warm-up that follows nine bolts.

Swan Song This is one of the best 5.10c routes at Nemo. You start on blocks on the right hand side of the main Cat’s Tail wall and head up pumpy rock.

Red Line Fever: One of the best and most sustained 5.10s at the crag. It climbs past seven bolts up an edge before stepping right into the crack and harder climbing above.

High Society: One of the original test-piece 5.10s. It climbs up a steep wall with reachy jugs and shouldn’t be missed.

Big Bolts are for Daddy: An often overlooked climb that is a good 5.10- warm-up or project, depending on your style.

Palm Sunday: Likely the most climbed and best 5.11a at Nemo, depending on who you ask. A fun arete slab sort of climb.

Mean Streak: A sustained 5.11d past nine bolts up the Central Wall. The crux sections have require lots of power.

Scarface: Likely the best 5.12a/b at Nemo. It climbs past eight bolts and has a number of crux sections.

High Society 5.10d. Photo Brandon Pullan