Climbers Start 2020 With Hard Boulder Sends

Canadian and international boulderers kick the decade off with double digit boulders

January 17th, 2020 by | Posted in 2013.04, News, Profiles |

It’s been a solid start to the decade with some boulders being sent by top climbers. Canadian Josh Muller sent The Beach V14 at Moe’s Valley, but suggested it’s likely more a hard V13. “We had such a great trip in Moe’s valley hanging with old friends and meeting new ones,” he said.

Toronto climber Jake Tiger took advantage of warm temps in Ontario and sent Seep and The Army Darkness V10 at Niagara Glen. He said, ” When this is dry it climbs amazingly. Compression and crack climbing. A very rare style to find at the glen.”

Alberta climber Miles Adamson started the year with a new V10 highball in Bishop he called Too Tall to Fall (watch here). B.C. crusher .J.J. Mah repeated Wet Dreams V12 in Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks.

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Last night I became enlisted in the Army of Darkness and conquered Seep 🐯 So psyched. . . . . . . Following tracks we go, digging holes in the snow. Down the stairs and to the left, To consult with the mother and do what we like best. Winding, wondering, chirping with glee. Asking ourselves, “will the rock we’ve come to see, be as dry as can be?” It’s face meets my eyes, which makes me smile. Exclusively elusive, epitomizes Seep and it’s jagged spine. Like a giant resting between two stones, exposing its vertebrate. I see a line to climb that is quiet straight. A hapless endeavour that we so helplessly love and wish to live. With passion and perseverance I push to the top. Claiming my stake on this ascent with a handful of snow and a heart that could glow. . . . . Filmed by @itsrichb . . #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing @smoki.bois #climbingvideo #boulderinglife #boulderingvideos #nightclimbing #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #nature #poem #poemofinstagram #motherearth

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James Webb sent his 25th V15 with Lucid Dreaming in Bishop after nine days of projects. “I feel like I’ve always been scared to try these types of boulders because deep down I believed I was going to fail,” said Webb. “Sometimes though, you just want to prove to yourself that you can do it. Or at least try damn hard.”

Austin Purdy sent The Story of Two Worlds in Cresciano for his first V15. It was first climbed and named by Dave Graham in 2010 and the name refers to the inflated grading system a decade ago.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen also recently climbed The Story of Two Worlds. “Just to be clear,” he said. “I did it with a kneepad. Still feels like one of the hardest things I’ve done. Probably even harder without the kneepad, didn’t try it that way. Respect to all guys who did it OG style.”

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Throughout my climbing life I’ve always considered myself a terrible crimp climber. I convinced myself long ago that I was either too big, or just to weak to be able to push myself in this style. So with this in mind I’ve simply stayed away. I feel like I’ve always been scared to try these types of boulders because deep down I believed I was going to fail. Sometimes though, you just want to prove to yourself that you can do it. Or at least try damn hard. This was the case for me this winter season in Bishop. I arrived with zero expectations and on my 9th day of battle I was able to make an ascent of ‘Lucid Dreaming’ V15 // I learned a lot from this experience and the most important part of that was to always try and never shy away from a challenge just because you think you can’t do it. In climbing the biggest way anyone can improve is by pushing themselves towards a goal that they never thought possible. The process is long and exhausting but it teaches us so much.. and in the end we come out a stronger more capable person ready to push it even further. 👊 So happy 2020 everyone. Let’s make it a good one! 🍻 #bouldering #crimpinainteasy #bishopcalifornia Cheers @kevintakashismith for the 🔥 📸 @hippytree @tenayaclimbing @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

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Clément Lechaptois repeated the famous Dreamtime in Cresciano giving it a personal grade of V14. Dreamtime was the world’s first V15 back in 2000 but was later downgraded. After a hold broke, it was bumped back up to V15.

Irina Kuzmenko also sent Dreamtime and said: “Can’t believe its happened. I did it from two small crimps without heel hooks. It was a hard journey with blood, tears, up and downs.

Vadim Timonov sent his fourth V15 with From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico after two project sessions. Max Deelen sent his first V15 with The Big Island in Fontainbleau.

Oriane Bertone, 14, flashed two hard problems in Rocklands: Light Saber V11 and Horizon Gazer V10.

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Do you know why I like climbing ? I like it because when I climb, I can be the true me. Climbing is the way I express myself, it’s my way of writing my history. Before everything, I was just a girl, that little girl with dreams, bigger than herself, bigger than what she was able to do. I was still a dreamer, watching those incredible athletes suffering at training, without understanding their objectives. And little by little, the dreams became goals, the athletes became examples and the play became training. During this incredible season, I realized that everything is possible, if you believe in yourself. I would never did it alone, so I want to say a BIG thanks to my dad/coach/teacher, @corinnegermond, @aurelie.dutertre and my mom for everything you did for me. Without forgot a thanks to all my friends and the French team for this incredible year ! | | @team_edelrid @e9clothing_official @scarpafrance @zer0_3000 @basaltevolution

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