Almost Canada Day and it’s Snowing in the Bugaboos

The Bugaboos are one of Canada’s go-to alpine destinations, some call it the Chamonix of North America.

By Canada Day, most southern aspect walls are dry and snow-free enough to climb, but as of this week, there’s still plenty of snow coming down.

The dirt logging road on the way in is in great condition and there are already a number of climbers camped at Applebee. The Kain Hut is mostly booked up for the next few months.

Climbers have been enjoying dry and warm conditions over the past few days, however a recent system has dumped some snow.

ACMG climbing guide Darren Vonk wrote on the Mountain Conditions Report, “Just back from a three-day trip with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.

“Over our three days we had very unsettled weather. The night of the 25th saw new snow to the hut elevation and drifts up to 40 cm on the Pigeon/Bugaboo fork glacier. We ventured towards West Ridge of Pigeon but zero visibility and the icy conditions to be encountered had us refocus on Hounds Tooth.

“The bergshrund was easily passed. Once at the col, strong west winds and up to 10 cm snow on the rocks made for a very hostile environment and we turned tail and went back to the hut. All in all very wintery up there still.”

Before you head out this Canada Day weekend, check the forecast and ask around for conditions. Plan accordingly and have a plan b and c.