New B.C. Routes Include Fun 5.10 and Four-Pitch 5.13
From easy-access to remote, newly opened routes add great options to popular areas
Photo by: Brandon PullanThe weather in B.C. has been touchy this spring, with several rainy weeks, but climbers have found enough windows to piece together some great looking new routes.
In Squamish, a new climbing area and a new multi-pitch have been completed. Paul McSorley has released the topo to his new Lost Pillar area which features routes from single-pitch 5.8 to two-pitch 5.13s. Several climbers helped with establishing the area, which is found up the Mamquam FSR and requires a 4X4 truck to reach.
On The Chief, Jacob Cook and Drew Marshall completed a new four-pitch 5.13b called Balance. It follows a dyke across the Tantalus Wall and joins the final pitch of Cerberus. It was bolted ground-up, and the pitches go at 5.12d, 5.12b, 5.13b and 5.11d. They also bolted Thousand Year Storm, a 40-metre 5.13a on Tantalus Wall. In 2020, Cook completed Call of the Sirens, a five-pitch 5.14 on Tantalus Wall.
In the Kootenays, Yann Troutet, Chantal Guillemette and Geneviève Pomerleau have completed the first ascent of the 130-metre The Long Haul on Pulpit Rock above the town of Nelson. The mixed bolt/trad route goes at 5.5, 5.7, 5.7, 5.8 and 5.10. Pulpit Rock has several fun routes with a relatively short approach, including The Fling 5.11b, The Engagement 5.10b and The Date 5.10a. Learn more about Pulpit Rock here.