The Arc’teryx Nuclei FL Hoody is Puffy Supreme

The new Arc’teryx Nuclei FL Hoody is a great puffy for below-freezing climbing days. I’ve had the opportunity to try the new puffy on some local ice routes in the Canadian Rockies and here’s what you need to know.

I’ve used the Nuclei FL for between laps at the base of crags and at multi-pitch belays. My first impression was that, despite having a slightly streamlined fit, it was easy to put on over my soft-shell. The trim build makes it an ideal choice for wearing on the move.

I’ve only used the jacket during the winter, but a number of climbers got the chance to use it last summer, including Michelle Pratt while working on a project on the Minerat with Quentin Roberts and photographer John Price. From the photos, it looks like it was a great piece to have in the Bugaboos:

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@m.t.pratt jugging up to her new home for a few nights. Sleeping on portaledges, high on the Minaret, under splitter weather by day and bright stars at night was a beautiful experience. @arcteryx

A post shared by John Price (@johnpricephotography) on Feb 21, 2020 at 8:50am PST

When the wind picked up, I felt like I was wrapped in a warm sleeping bag. It’s hands down one of the best insulated jackets in windy conditions hitting the market this year. I’ve heard from ice climbers in Ontario that said even in damp conditions, they felt the same way.

I was impressed with how small the Nuclei FL Hoody packs down, I’d say to the size of a soup can when squished into its stuff sack. The fabric is light and durable, but you want to be careful around sharp rocks and trees as an abrupt jab could tear it. I loved the easy-to-grab zipper tabs, big pockets and insulated hood.

This is a must-have new puffy for ice climbing, alpine climbing and multi-pitch cool-day rock climbing. For more information on the men’s see here and for women’s see here.

What Arc’teryx Says

Packable warmth for the trail. This insulated hoody is a great summer essential on trips where space in your pack is limited. Made with ultralight materials, this warm layer packs down super small. But when it’s time for a snack break or some summit time, it blocks the wind and provides just the right amount of insulation.

• 10 denier nylon fabric blocks wind and has a light DWR coating to shed moisture.
• Coreloft Continuous insulation is highly compressible and retains loft even when wet.
• Insulated hood is adjustable, fits under a helmet and seals out the cold.
• 2 zippered hand pockets and 2 internal drop in pockets.
• Hem is adjustable and designed to work with a harness.