A Multi-Day M6 First Ascent in the Himalaya
A climb like this can take its toll on two climbers, even when they're two of the best. A new video about their first ascent was just released
From May 19 to May 23, 2023, Piolet d’Or recipient Marek Holecek and his partner Matej Bernat made the first ascent of the northwest face of Sura Peak (6,764 m) in the Khumbu Himal in Nepal. They named their new route 1,500-metre route Simply Beautiful and graded it M6.
On their second last morning morning, they struggled to motivate themselves as they had to climb another 80 metres of steep and loose However, retreating was not an option, as the sections they had already climbed were steeop. Holecek struggled through the next two pitches for hours, pushing himself to his mental and physical limits.
Fatigued and suffering from extreme cold, the duo finally completed the rock and proceeded with two ice pitches before they found a bivy. They reached the summit and then made the long descent to a small tea house where porters awaited them.
After their ascent, Holecek wrote, “We are on the top of Sura peak. Joy? I would hardly describe the feeling like that. Such a smile with the corners of the mouth down. Actually, what did I expect? I know it well, tired, frozen and the vision of a brutal descent ahead us. Sure, the entire Himalayas in the palm of your hand. On the left is my love Chamlag, then Makalu, Baruntse, the black wall of Lhotce, behind it the azure Cho Oyu, also the Pumori pyramid, the popsicle Ama Dablam and to the south dozens of other peaks.”
Sura Peak
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