Action Directe 5.14d is Repeated for 30th Time
The first ascent of the iconic route was in 1991 by legendary climber Wolfgang Güllich
Moritz Welt has made the 30th known repeat of Action Directe 5.14d in Frankenjura. Welt has climbed nearly 20 routes in the 5.14d/5.15a range over the past few years.
On Sept. 14, 1991, Wolfgang Güllich made the first ascent of Action Directe, the world’s first 5.14d. The route has a 16-move sequence with a crux dynamic move to a two-finger pocket. The route has been climbed with only 11 moves since the first ascent. Bolted on steep wall on the Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany, by Milan Sykora in the 1980s. The original route traversed in from the right, but Güllich bolted a direct start.
The fastest redpoint to date was by Alex Megos, who only needed two hours to send. He has since sent it at least five times, the most by any climber. The first woman to climb it was Mélissa Le Nevé in 2020.
Weltz started climbing in Frankenjura and first tried Action Directe around five years ago, but started to project it two years ago. He said on 8a.nu that he’d always wanted to try it but was intimidated, either by its historical status or “violent climbing style.” See every climber who’s sent Action Directe below.
Action Directe Sends
1991: Wolfgang Güllich
1995: Alexander Adler
2000: Iker Pou
2001: Dave Graham
2003: Christian Bindhammer
2005: Rich Simpson (disputed)
2005: Dai Koyamada
2005: Markus Bock
2006: Kilian Fischhuber
2008: Adam Ondra
2008: Patxi Usobiaga
2010: Gabriele Moroni
2010: Jan Hojer
2010: Adam Pustelnik
2010: Felix Knaub
2012: Rustam Gelmanov
2014: Alex Megos
2015: Felix Neumärker
2015: Julius Westphal
2016: Stefano Carnati
2016: David Firnenburg
2017: Stephan Vogt
2017: Simon Lorenzi
2018: Said Belhaj (disputed)
2018: Stefan Scarperi
2019: Adrian Chmiała
2020: Mélissa Le Nevé
2021: Phillip Gabner
2022: Buster Martin
2023: Vojtech Trojan
2023: Moritz Welt
Buster Martin on Action Directe
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