Alex Honnold Climbs Big Routes in Patagonia
During a season with a number of difficult new routes added to the Torre group
It was a late start to the Patagonia climbing season, but that didn’t stop some of the best climbers in the world from putting down some big lines.
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton completed a route up the East Pillar of Torre Egger called Marc-André’s Visión. And then Belgian climbers Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll climbed a new route on Aguja Standhardt they called El Flechazo, an 850-metre 5.12b M3 WI5+.
Another big story of this season has been Alex Honnold’s climbs, one of which he did with Colin Haley and one that he made solo.
Honnold soloed Thaw’s Not Houlding Wright on Aguja de l’S at “5.10d or so,” he said. “The weather forecast was marginal – a chance of precipitation throughout the day, medium winds, chilly temps – but seemed ok to at least stroll into the mountains and see how things unfolded. It was mostly sunny (with rain) on the hike in (first pic), but after scrambling up the initial 2k ft buttress it started snowing pretty hard and the winds increased.
“But by then it seemed easier to finish the hard climbing and descend the East face of de l’S than to climb back down the buttress and walk back out the Torre Valley (which is always a laborious approach). So I wound up climbing very icy cracks in a very windy snow storm and made it to the top. Thankfully the descent was a lot more sheltered and I downclimbed the historic East Face down to the glacier and then back to the normal hiking trails.”
Honnold spent around 12 hours door to door and “something like 7.5k ft of vertical and 24 miles of hiking/jogging in and out.” The route was first climbed by Kevin Thaw, Leo Houlding and Cedar Wright. “Great route,” said Honnold, “when it’s not covered in ice.”
Honnold then teamed up with Haley for a multi-day climb in the mountains. They made a traverse of Cerro Pollone, Cerro Piergiorgio and Domo Blanco. “Really though,” said Haley. “Cerro Pollone was an easy warm-up, Domo Blanco an easy cool-down, and traversing Piergiorgio was the bulk of the climbing.
“Piergiorgio is a serrated knife-edge of a mountain, with a precipitous big-wall on the west-side, and lower-angle but icier slopes on the east side. We never once donned the rock shoes that we brought, and we both ended the adventure with quite sore feet from the sustained front-pointing. Alex is very adaptable, and continues to make rapid progress in developing his alpine skill set.”
Despite the fame he gained from his free-solo of Freerider, which was featured in the Oscar-winning Free Solo, and long list of history-making climbs, Honnold continues to push it in the mountains.