Alexander Megos has made the second ascent of King Capella at Siurana in Catalonia, Spain. The first ascent was earlier this year by British climber Will Bosi, 22, who suggested 5.15c. Bosi recently repeated Mutation in the U.K. and suggested an upgrade to 5.15a, read that story here.
If Megos confirms the grade of King Capella, it would make Bosi the first British climber and only the sixth climber ever to send a 5.15c. Megos announced his repeat on Instagram, but didn’t include a personal grade, only noting that he “used slightly different beta than Will taking a very wide pinch, which felt a little easier to me than what Will did. He couldn’t do the move the way I did it though, so I guess it’s personal preference.”
Bosi had climbed La Capella 5.15b in the same sector in early 2020 which made him the first Brit to climb the grade abroad, before working on King Capella. During that trip, he made the first ascents of La Furia de Jabali 5.15b (bolted by Beto Rocasolano) and Last Night 5.14d (bolted by Dani Andrada). King Capella, bolted by David Brasco, represented a significant step up in difficulty according to Bosi.
Bosi said, “King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella, whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella.”
As well as the intense, fingery and powerful climbing typical of the area, the middle of the route was unlocked by Bosi with an explosive dynamic move before moving straight into another tough sequence. “With powerful moves that don’t let up and having big all points off moves, King Capella was like I got to be Chris Sharma for a day, it was amazing!”
King Capella starts left of La Capella at the edge of the scooped wall into a set of bouldery sequences before the pressure finally relents. It took Bosi 10 sessions to make the first ascent. The other climbers to send 5.15c, include Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi and Jakob Schubert.