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Amity Warme Sends 20-Pitch 5.13 in Yosemite

Father Time is just over a decade old and is considered by many to be one of the best free routes on Middle Cathedral

Top big wall free climber Amity Warme has repeated Father Time, a 20-pitch 5.13b on Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. While some areas in Yosemite National Park are closed due to flooding, the valley is busy with climbers.

Father Time was established ground-up by Mikey Schaefer over the course of two years. There are three 5.13b pitches and four 5.12s, with the remainder being runout 5.10 and 5.11. After the first ascent in 2012, Schaefer said, “After nine days on the wall and nearly 60 days of effort spread over two years Father Time is officially finished. No longer the mega project and now the mega route.” Read Schaefer’s story here.

Warme has amassed an impressive Yosemite tick-list over the past year, including Golden Gate 5.13a 36 pitches ground-up, Freerider 5.13a 31 pitches (twice), NIAD at 11:45, The Niels Tietze Memorial Route AKA The Nexus 5.13a/b 9 pitches, The Final Frontier 5.13a/b 9 pitches, The Dream Team 5.13a 10 pitches, Scarface Free 5.12 9 pitches, Wayward Son 5.12 14 pitches and The Crucifix 5.12 5 pitches.

Warme recently started a website where she offers diet and training advice, check it out here. In 2018, Nina Williams made a free ascent of Father Time, read her story about it here.