Anak Verhoeven has climbed No Pain, No Gain 5.15a in Rodellar, Spain, which was first climbed by Dani Fuerte. It took her just over a week of project days. In 2017, she became the first woman in history to establish a a 5.15a with Sweet Neuf.
“I had an encouraging first send attempt in which I fell high up, right before coming out of the roof,” said Verhoeven about No Pain, No Gain. “Sending felt within reach. But then a weather change was predicted, and I felt some extra pressure because I knew the rain was coming. Consequently, the conditions were not ideal, but heavy air and no wind are still better than wet holds. So, I went for my second redpoint try and felt solid. I was focused, but not as nervous as during my first try a few days before.”
Verhoeven sent Las Meninas 5.14d/15a in Spain in September and Jungfrau Marathon 5.14d in Switzerland back in summer. She won three World Cup golds and eight silvers before retiring in 2019. According to 8a.nu, she’s now climbed 16 routes 5.14+ or harder.
“Lots of things could make me fall, but I tried to climb in a relaxed way nevertheless,” said Verhoeven about No Pain, No Gain. “When I reached the end of the last crux, I fought to stay on and managed to keep going. A big rest brought relief and gave me the energy for the last tricky boulder. And then I clipped the chains. A few hours later it started raining.”