Climber Free-Solos New 400-metre M4 WI5
While making the first ascent of a steep mixed route, Martin Feistl noticed another unclimbed line and went for it solo, without a rope
Martin Feistl has made the first ascent of Daily Dose of Luck, a 400-metre M4 WI5 on Hammerspitze in Austria. He climbed the route solo, without a rope or partner.
Feistl climbed the route mid-winter after making the first ascent of Men With Morals, a 170-metre M8 WI6R in the same valley next to the route Men Without Nerves, which was established in the mid-1980s.
About why he left the rope behind, Feistl wrote on Planet Mountain, “I could have taken gear with me to self-belay, but somehow the idea of rope-solo climbing in winter doesn’t appeal to me at all. Everything takes too long and anyways, on ice you just don’t fall.”
He talks about climbing up steep terrain that he only committed to because he knew he’d have confidence to down-climb it. He climbs solid rock, gets good sticks in grass tufts and then climbs a steep curtain of ice. “I’ve just established a 400-metre long ice and mixed climb,” he said. “Onsight. Free solo. Hmm. That’s awesome, isn’t it? But now what should I do? Normally I hardly share my solo efforts; my fear of being influenced indirectly usually gets the better of me. But in principle I always publish my first ascents, in great detail. In this case though I can’t. Having climbed without ropes, I don’t even know how many pitches I climbed! And what about gear? Belays?”
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
