Climbers Give Le Voyage 5.13d trad, not E10
Two strong French climbers have made quick work of the famous gear route, suggesting it's not as hard as first proposed
Two French climbers have added their names to the growing list of climbers who’ve redpointed Le Voyage in Annot, France. Originally graded E10 by James Pearson, Melissa Le Nevé and Fabi Buhl have suggested it’s 5.13d and is safer than expected.
E10 roughly translates to a run-out 5.14a with potential for getting seriously injured. Le Nevé and Buhl’s grade suggestions are a downgrade from 5.14R to a safe 5.13d. The 38-metre route starts with a 5.11 crack before moving into a good rest position. A traverse on tiny holds follows, with the finishing moves in an upper crack.
About the grade, Le Nevé said, “..it felt a bit easier than some 8b [5.13d] there. And if the crux problem was in Fontainebelau, it will be probably around 6c [V5]. It’s possible the holds get better over time with this very smooth sandstone. I didn’t feel like I could get injured if I fall and it brought me this really nice feeling of control over engagement. It felt actually pretty safe if you are able to place gear well.” And Buhl said, “I have not climbed a huge number of trad routes with E grades , but the once I climbed were graded also E9/E10 and felt much more committing than Voyage, as you actually could hit the deck. In Voyage you have plenty of gear and basically never take a grounder. I would say it is a classic 8b on trad gear.”
The full list of climbers who’ve sent Le Voyage includes James Pearson, Siebe Vanhee, Jacopo Larcher, Babsi Zangerl, Symon Welfringer, Jonas Schild, Steve McClure, Ignacio Mulero, Seb Berthe, Robbie Phillips, Caroline Ciavaldini, Melissa Le Nevé and Fabi Buhl.
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