Climbing Books Hitting the Shelves in 2024

There are several climbing books hitting the shelves this year, including memoirs and deep dives into the culture of mountaineering. These four books that will be available over the next few months deal with life, death, alpinism, Sherpas and much more.

We’ll have more information about the following titles and book reviews int the upcoming print issues of Gripped magazine.

Alpine Rising – Sherpas, Baltis, and the Triumph of Local Climbers in the Greater Ranges: The name of Maurice Herzog, the first man to reach the summit of Annapurna, is widely recognized, but how many know Ang Tharkay, the Sherpa who carried the seriously frostbitten Herzog on his back for miles? Although rarely mentioned in published accounts of early expeditions, local climbers have long been significant members of first ascents on the world’s tallest and most challenging peaks. In Alpine Rising, award-winning writer Bernadette McDonald sets the record straight by shining a light on these too often forgotten heroes.

Now, in the 21st century, it is often local climbers who are setting records. A Nepali team was the first to climb K2 in winter; they reached the summit while singing their national anthem. Pakistani climbers like Little Karim and Ali Sadpara devoted their lives to helping others survive and succeed on and off the mountains and their stories deserve to be more widely known. Not only a timely reminder of the need to recognize the contributions of local climbers and the importance of correcting the historical record, Alpine Rising is a celebration of a region’s local heroes. (Bernadette McDonald, Mountaineers Books)

Survival Is Not Assured – The Life of Climber Jim Donini: Jim Donini has been an icon of American climbing for the past 50 years, pushing the boundaries of alpine ascents around the world and inspiring generations with his achievements. In Survival Is Not Assured, award-winning author Geoff Powter dives into Donini’s remarkable life story, exploring his groundbreaking climbs and his tumultuous experiences both on and off the rock. From the tragic death of his best friend in a car accident to his integral role in the Yosemite “Valley Uprising,” Donini’s life has been a roller coaster of highs and lows, but his spirit of resilience and determination has been unyielding.

Through personal interviews and never-before-shared stories, this authorized biography examines the life and legacy of this iconic climber, providing an inspiring and thought-provoking look at an American legend. (Goeff Powter, Mountaineers Books)

Avalanche Dreams – A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing, and Life: In this riveting memoir, renowned mountaineer Lou Dawson shares a tumultuous coming-of-age journey, from the flatlands of Texas to the Colorado mountains, steeped in the counterculture revolution of the 1960s. Amidst the towering peaks, Lou discovers an enduring love for alpine sports: scaling cliffs, topping summits, skiing powder snow. However, as the avalanches fall and lifestyle choices veer, his pursuit of adrenaline becomes a poignant struggle for meaning in a culture where nothing succeeds like excess.

This deeply moving narrative invites readers to join Lou as he navigates a precarious path toward fulfillment, showcasing his transformation from a reckless, thrill-seeking youth to a devoted father determined to build a stable foundation for his family. Lou Dawson’s extraordinary journey, both through the mountains and the recesses of his heart, serves as a timeless exploration of self-discovery and spiritual growth, offering readers a poignant glimpse into the transformative power of the wild, and the indomitable strength found within. (Louis W. Dawson, Best Peak Press)

Headstrap – Legends and Lore from the Climbing Sherpas of Darjeeling: This captivating chronicle delves into the untold story of a tribe of people who have played a significant role in mountain exploration and climbing in the Himalayas. Situated in northern India, Darjeeling was developed as a colonial retreat by the British in the early 1830s and soon became famous for its tea gardens, attracting locals from around the region, Nepal, and Tibet in search of work. When Darjeeling became the jumping-off point for early Himalayan expeditions, workers from the Sherpa and Bhutia communities soon established themselves as the preferred high-altitude porters, bringing fame, entwined with tales of valor, courage, and sacrifice, to the city. These are some of their stories.

Over the course of a decade, authors Nandini Purandare and Deepa Balsavar conducted a series of interviews with Sherpas from Darjeeling, as well as their family members, descendants, friends, and contemporary climbers. Headstrap weaves a vivid tapestry of this particular Sherpa community, giving them the recognition in mountaineering literature that they deserve. (Nandini Purandare and Deepa Balsavar, Mountaineers Book)