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First Ascent of an Albertan V10 by Matt Lucas

Matt Lucas is no stranger to hard bouldering problems and he recently opened a new crag in Kananaskis Country with fellow Calgary climbers.

Their new crag is dubbed Crows Nest and is located across from Nakiska Ski Resort in Kananaskis Country, AB.

Joined by Marc Eveleigh and Joel White, Lucas established Bleeding Edge of Freedom V10, which was quickly repeated by Eveleigh. “Such a sick line,” said Lucas.

“Perfect holds, steep compression, tufas, all leading to a sweet foot swing and a long finishing move. Can’t ask for more in a problem.”

Matt Lucas on
Matt Lucas on Bleeding Edge of Freedom V10.  Photo Marc Eveleigh

“I saw the crag from the road when myself and a few friends were coming back from a different place we were developing,” said Lucas. “I think when it’s all said it done there should be around 20 to 25 new problems there.”

Earlier in 2015, Lucas sent Tauntaun’s Trek V11 on Alberta’s historic Big Rock.

Lucas said there should be a topo and approach information to their new Crows Nest soon. We will update the story when it’s available.

Joel White working the moves of
Joel White working the moves of Bleeding Edge of Freedom.  Photo Matt Lucas