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Hansjorg Auer Aims to Solo Big Peak in Karakorum

Lupghar Sar Photo Wikicommons/Rizwan.shinaki

Hansjorg Auer is hoping to solo Lupghar Sar West in the Karakorum of Pakistan this summer.

The accomplished 34-year-old Austrian climber is already en route to the 7,100-metre peak, the 109th tallest in the world, with no more than some porters and a cook.

The big peak was first climbed by back in 1979 and Auer hopes to solo a new route up the west face.

Lupghar Sar West is one of three peaks of Lupghar Sar and Auer’s objective was first spotted back in 1986 by two Spanish climbers.

“The last activity I know of was in summer 2000 by some French mountaineers, but I couldn’t find any concrete details,” Auer told planetmountain.com.

“In Pakistan from time to time there are expeditions climbing under the radar and this makes research sometimes a bit more difficult.”

When asked, “With your previous expeditions as a basis for comparison, what are the main differences with going solo, right from home?”

Auer explained, “For me it will be the next step to see if I can transport all my solo climbing experience in the Alps to high altitude. Furthermore, I believe there is a big difference between setting off alone from home and soloing a mountain, to going on an expedition with others and then for some reason soloing a mountain, because a partner is unwell, whatever.

“Sometimes 80 per cent of the time during an expedition you’re not actually climbing. When you have a team of friends with you, it’s easier to deal with that time off, which is mostly characterized by decisions making every day. But now I won’t be able to count on my friends to help me in the decision making, and as I see it this lends the project a very special taste. If I’m honest and ask myself why, then this is a taste I’m always looking for somehow.”

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