Hard New R/X Trad Route at New Brunswick’s Eagle Rock
Watch the first ascent, which uses skyhooks and micro-cams for protection
Peter Adamson has made the first ascent of a bold trad route at Eagle Rock in New Brunswick that he’s called Hookshot R/X. Adamson said, “This route climbs a beautiful face/arete, but the protection leaves a bit to be desired.”
For the protection, he noted, “Protected by tensioned hooks, micro cams, and brassies, you definitely don’t want to fall. This ascent was the result of many hours sitting alone on a top rope solo, rehearsing and perfecting the moves. A big thanks to Ian Lingley for having the vision years ago to see that these routes could be sent without bolts, and for setting an amazing precedent to follow at this cliff. It has resulted in some of the most beautiful natural lines in the province, and I imagine it will continue to do so.”
The route was scrubbed and cleaned in the past, and attempted, but adequate protection wasn’t found. At the Ascent AGM in 20019, a bolt ban was put in place for Eagle Rock, with anchors being the exception to the rule and permitted where necessary. Starfish 5.11d is classic sport climb at the crag, but one established before the ban was put in place.
Adamson often doesn’t grade his new routes. Follow him for hard east coast climbing below.
Hookshot R/X
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