Hard New Routes by Seb Bouin and Adam Ondra
Seb Bouin and Adam Ondra are taking advantage of good weather in Europe to continue their new-routing in 2018.
Bouin, who has climbed up to 5.15a, has made the first ascent of La Côte d’usure in the Ramilore Cave of Verdon, a route he bolted nearly 10 years ago.
The steep line is 60 metres long and he said it’s one of the most amazing routes he’s ever bolted.
“Yesterday I did the first ascent of my huge 60-metre prow in the middle of the Gorges du Verdon at La Ramirole,” said Bouin. “This route means a lot to me, even though my main goal was my project in Norway.
“I bolted this route nine years ago, when i was 16 years old… I suggest 9a+/5.15a for the grade, this means that it’s becoming the hardest route at La Ramirole.”
Adam Ondra has climbed more than 160 routes graded 5.14d or harder and added another first ascent to the list this week.
Ondra recently competed at the World Championships in Innsbruck where he finished in second place in the combined format.
Unlike many comp climbers who went back to training, Ondra headed outdoors for some new route action.
In Bosnia, Ondra made the first ascent of Interklemezzo 5.14d at Kanjon Tjesno. The wall was discovered and mostly bolted by Peter Schwamberger.
“It has been a while since I bolted any mega-line and I enjoyed the whole process so much,” said Ondra.
“The curiosity whether the line will go, how the moves are going to be. Lot of uncertain factors but that what makes the bolting so exciting. Now the route is ready, I did all the moves and good news is that it is hard – 50 meters of hard climbing from the ground to the top.”
Ondra was taking part in the Chill and Drill Climbing Festival, which is 10 days of bolting, climbing, highlining and nights around the fire.
“A celebration of an international climbing and highlining culture and the spirit of vertical pioneering.”
Spent two days bolting and cleaning this 5 star line on the left side of Amfiteatar sector in Kanjon Tijesno. It has been a while since I bolted any mega-line and I enjoyed the whole process so much. The curiosity whether the line will go, how the moves are going to be… Lot of uncertain factors but that what makes the bolting so exciting. Now the route is ready, I did all the moves and good news is that it is hard. 50 meters of hard climbing from the ground to the top. Lets see what tomorrow brings. Pic by Jan Simanek @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon