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Huge New WI5 Ice Route Climbed on Mont Blanc

The classic looking line is found on the Brenva Face of the highest mountain in the Alps

Mont Blanc is one of Europe’s most popular mountains with dozens of high-quality routes and ski lines, and two Italian alpinists just added a big new ice climb up the Brenva Face.

Francesco Civra Dano and Giuseppe Vidoni found and climbed a steep new 170-metre wall of ice they called Cascata Major VI WI5. It climbs up the famous red pillar where the summer rock climb The Mazeaud/Sorgato can be found.

They made the first ascent on Nov. 20 and took it to the summit before a bivy at the famous Gouter Refuge; they descended the next morning. Cascata Major is now one of over 1,600 ice and mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif.

From cutting edge testpieces to low-commitment lines, the mountains around Chamonix have something for everyone. Other classics include Vent du Dragon on Aiguille du Midi and Supercouloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul.


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