Japan’s First 5.15b is Finally Repeated
Soul Mate was first climbed by Sachi Amma and finally repeated five years later by Minyoung Lee
Minyoung Lee has made the second ascent of Soul Mate, which was first climbed in 2018 by Sachi Amma as the first 5.15b in Japan. Located at Gozen Rock, Amma had bolted it in December 2017 as the “ER Project” after making the first ascent of Maturity 5.15a.
“I decided to grade it easy 5.15b,” said Amma, who had already climbed several 5.15b sport routes. “It was really difficult to grade, because the crux is bouldery and reachy. It’s V14 for me, but it might be V13 or V15 for someone else.”
After his repeat, Lee said on 8a.nu, “The first day I felt that’s a really hard route but I solved each move but I didn’t link the crux part and the not either on the second day. On the third day it just happened during the first attempt of the day. Suddenly everything became possible and it was a magical moment. I still can’t believe it.”
Earlier this year, Lee climbed Adam Ondra’s Jungle Boogie 5.15a in Céüse, and two years ago he was 21st overall in the Boulder World Cup series.
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