Joe Skopec Climbs New 5.14+ in Ontario – “A Mental Battle”
My Curse follows a steep line at Lion's Head and breaks down to 5.13d to a V12 to a 5.13d with rests along the way
Joe Skopec is one of Ontario’s top climbers, with ascents of several of the province’s hardest routes. He recently made the first free ascent of an old Mark Smith project at Lion’s Head, which he says is his hardest redpoint to date. He named it My Curse.
“As for the grade 8c+/9a [5.14c/14d],” said Skopec. “I haven’t tried a 9a [5.14d] and have no idea. I just know it’s harder than any 8c+ [5.14c] I’ve tried. Sadly Ontario doesn’t have many upper 5.14s.” Skopec said that it’s probably one of the hardest routes in Ontario, and broke it down to: “5.13d, rest, V12, rest, pumpy 5.13d to the anchors for around 100 feet.”
About the process, Skopec said, “It was hard to come mentally prepared when all I did was train alone in my garage. It was very draining to stay on top of my game and just waiting for good temps.”
In terms of the focus needed to send My Curse, Skopec said, “The route is a mental battle. The crux is super run out with skipping two bolts, then afterwards everything is about 15 feet apart.” Skopec said that sending My Curse brought tears to his eyes. “I gave up so much in life to be in shape for this life. It was all worth it in the end.”
After his send of My Curse, Skopec visited The Swamp where he made the first free ascent of Boys Trip 5.13+, an old Gus Alexandropoulos project, and sent Pacing the Cage 5.12d.
As for what’s next, he’s been busy ticking off every route in the guidebooks Ontario Climbing: Vol 2 The Northern Escarpment and Ontario Climbing: Vol 1 The Southern Escarpment. He only has 30 climbs remaining of the hundreds listed. “I have one Lion’s Head trip at the end of this month,” he said. “Going to try to finish a few of the last 5.13ds I have left.”
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