Chris Sharma on Jumbo Love in 2008

American Jonathan Siegrist has made the third ascent of Jumbo Love 5.15b on Clark Mountain in California.

The first ascent was by Chris Sharma in 2008 and repeated in 2015 by Ethan Pringle. It took Siegrist about a month of work.

The 80-metre bolted route is the hardest in America and was the first 5.15b in the world when first climbed.

Siegrist has climbed a number of hard lines including Bone Tomahawk 5.15a, Chaxi 5.15a, Joe Mama 5.15a, Pachamama 5.15a/b.

“[I’m] so happy for you!!,” said Margo Hayes on Instagram. And Pringle came in with big stoke saying, “DUDE!!! WHAAATTT!!!! AAAGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! F*#K YES!!!”

In an interview with Rock and Ice, Siegrist said to the question What was the hardest part for you? A particular move? The mental aspect of such a long route?

“To be honest, I think one of the stand out characteristics of this process for me is how un-stressful it was. I think that’s just because I really tried my best to never feel as though I deserved to climb the route. As climbers we often have this—an ego thing—this attitude of feeling entitled. Like, ‘I worked hard enough so I should be doing this.’

“And I just really tried to refrain from having that sensation, and just focused on making little incremental improvements on my tries every day I was there. Just tried to be really patient and calm.

“It easily could have gone on and on and on, but sometimes we just labor over routes and other times we don’t. I certainly think it’s the hardest route I’ve ever climbed. In a lot of ways it felt like I was prepared physically. I was more patient and a little more open minded in my approach than I had been in the past.”

Watch Pringle take a whipper off the big route below.

Report error or omission

Related

Leave a Reply