Margo Hayes has reported on Instagram that she sent Biographie (also known as Realization) 5.15a in Ceuse, as the 14th climber to do so.
This spring, Hayes became the first female to climb a 5.15a with her send of La Rambla. Later in the summer, Anak Verhoeven made the first ascent Sweet Neuf, a linkup at Pierrot Beach at Vercors, France, that she graded 5.15a.
MY HEART IS FULL 💓 I am grateful to Jean-Christophe Lafaille for envisioning this graceful line, Biographie, in 1989. In 1996, Arnaud Petit completed the pitch to the first anchor, and five years later, in 2001, @chris_sharma became the first person to complete the line to the highest anchor, simultaneously sending the first ever 9a+. Thank you for giving Biographie / Realization to our community! In life, we are tested. Biographie tested my commitment, my fortitude, and my belief in myself. In May, I touched Biographie for the first time. Ever since, the route has been ingrained in my mind and body. In one week, I will leave France, the country that I have lived in and learned from for the past year. Just yesterday, I realized this dream. The difficulties of this endeavor were overshadowed by the sound of the birds, laughter of friends, and the changing of the seasons. To experience the delicate power that Biographie holds is a true privilege. I am so grateful for the support that I have received from the climbing community throughout this process, especially from @arnaudpetit_climb , my mentor on this journey. Thank you, @alexandermegos for the send belay and @jan_novak_photography for this image. @thenorthface @petzl_official @lasportivana @frictionlabs @dogearedjewelry
The 30-metre Biographie/Realization was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and since then a hold broke, making it harder than when Sharma did it.
In France the name of the route is always given by the person who bolts it, not sends it. While in America, the first free ascent climber gets to name it.
Biographie/Realization was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille. n 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route and did the first ascent of the first half.
In July 2001, Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name Realization, but said “most of the time I actually call the route Biographie.
About a decade ago, the anchor marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall.
Chris Sharma in 2001
Sylvain Millet on May 24 in 2004
Patxi Usobiaga on July 29 in 2004
Dave Graham on July 30 in 2007
Ethan Pringle on September 2 in 2007
Ramón Julián Puigblanque on July 27, 2008
Enzo Oddo on August 15 in 2010
Jonathan Siegrist on June 1 in 2014
Alex Megos on July 11 in 2014
Adam Ondra on July 22 in 2014
Sachi Amma on August 7 in 2014
Stefano Ghisolfi on June 22 in 2015
Jon Cardwell on May 25 in 2016
Sean Bailey on August 5 in 2016
Margo Hayes on September 24 in 2017