Meini Li Climbs 5.14c in China at 13 Years Old

Meini Li, 13, has just climbed the 40-metre long endurance test-piece Tornado 5.14c in Yangshuo, China. She needed only six days and 13 attempts for the redpoint, according to 8a.nu. Li is one of the top youth climbers in the country with dozens of podium finishes at national comps in boulder, speed and lead, over the past few years.

In 2021, Li became the youngest climber ever to redpoint 5.14a at 10 years old with China Climb. The following year, Ziheng Qiu climbed her first 5.14a with China Climb at only nine years old. Shortly after Qiu, Yunxi Chen became the youngest climber ever to tick 5.14a with a redpoint of China Climb at only eight years old.

The first 25 metres of Tornado is 5.12d then it climbs into a cruxy boulder that’s followed by a rest into another crux boulder. The finish to the top eases until the chains. Michael Piccolruaz, who made the second ascent in 2018, said, “Should get more attention, as it’s a great bouldery route even though it’s 40 metres long.”

After Qiu’s ascent of China Climb, Logan Barber who equipped it in 2006, had this to say about the route: “It was the first 5.14b in China but later downgraded to 5.14a. I never managed to climb the route. Its amazing how standards are rising so fast.” Watch Li climb China Climb below.

China Climb