Miles Adamson Sends Honour and Glory 5.14d

Canmore-based Miles Adamson has made the third ascent of Honour and Glory 5.14d in Echo Canyon. Adamson had been working on the route first climbed by Evan Hau, which was originally graded 5.15a.

Adam Ondra, who recently made the first ascent of Canada’s second 5.15, downgraded Honour and Glory to 5.14d. It took Adamson around 20 days of projecting to join the 5.14d club and credits Ondra’s training advice with helping.

“I took all of his advice very seriously and trained in the evening several times last week after a morning session.”

Day 5 on Honour and Glory, doing huge links now. @alex_fricker went up a fixed line and got this pic of me looking very very pumped on the rest separating the 14+/14- sections. The route stacks up as 3 boulders problems, a rest on the epoxy flake, one last hard boulder (on epoxied holds..) and then the rest on the pic. 25m of steep and pumpy climbing to the top from there. . On a redpoint burn, I fell on the last hard move before the flake rest from the ground, and linked it to the final roof from there. There is a real chance I send the first time I get to the epoxy flake. Psyched

A post shared by Miles Adamson (@miles_adamson) on May 7, 2018 at 2:01pm PDT

“I also cut out alcohol and made sure to eat properly for recovery,” said Adamson. “It was five days of climbing in a row, mostly doing 4×4’s at Elevation Place.

“I then took two days off, had a light day yesterday and felt incredible today. It was also one of the only days where the entire route was dry and it was windy enough for sticky rock but warm enough to stay warm.” Click on the clip below to watch Adamson clip the chains with some motivation from below.

It finally came together. Today I made the 3rd rare ascent of Honour and Glory, 14d. It took about 20 days of work. Sharma took 4 years on Biographie, and Huber hundreds of attempts to do La Rambla. So while 20 days felt like way too long, and I was getting frustrated, I’m sure with a multiple season project I could climb harder than this. Hiking up with Ondra, I got to talk to him a ton about projecting and training. A lot of things were surprising, mainly how many days he climbs in a row and how often he climbs twice in a day (morning/evening). I took all of his advice very seriously and trained in the evening several times last week after a morning session. I also cut out alcohol and made sure to eat properly for recovery. It was 5 days of climbing in a row, mostly doing 4×4’s at EP. I then took 2 days off, had a light day yesterday and felt incredible today. It was also one of the only days where the entire route was dry, and it was windy enough for sticky rock but warm enough to stay warm. I wish I could have done it when Reel Rock was filming but that doesn’t really matter, I learned a ton from Ondra and am so stoked to be a part of the 9a club.

A post shared by Miles Adamson (@miles_adamson) on Jul 21, 2018 at 6:43pm PDT