Mount Nemo and Kelso in Ontario Open for Climbing
After more than a year of being closed, two of the most popular crags near Toronto will be open
After more than a year of being closed to climbers, Conservation Halton will be allowing climbing once again at the Kelso and Mount Nemo in southern Ontario. Climbers will still need to book a time slot to climb.
Back in March 2020, a recent press release from Conservation Halton noted that they are closing Mount Nemo, Rattlesnake, Kelso and other areas. It read: “Conservation Halton is continuing to monitor the latest Covid-19 developments and is taking precautions to keep our workplace safe for staff, visitors and partners across the watershed. We have taken proactive steps to ensure the health and well-being of our people, our customers, our suppliers, and our communities, while ensuring we provide uninterrupted services where possible. These efforts have been guided by our Core Values and focus on safety.”
Rattlesnake was reopened early during the pandemic, and time slots filled up quickly. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers has said, “Conservation Halton is aware that some climbers have been booking back to back time slots. It is our understanding that Conservation Halton sympathizes with climbers who need more time, and that enforcement activity is unlikely if you do this. However, CH asks that visitors recognize that these are shared areas. Booking back to back time slots at a busy area could negatively impact other visitors’ access. Please be considerate to all. Let’s avoid the situation where users are unable to make reservations, and time slots may have to be closely monitored and regulated.”
Mount Nemo is one of Canada’s most historic and visited climbing areas, with great views and fun rock. Located southwest of Toronto, the limestone walls make up only one section of the Niagara Escarpment that stretches north to Georgian Bay. Kelso is a north-facing cliff band in Kelso Conservation Area below a ski hill.
10 Fun Nemo Routes
The Hunchback: A new-ish 5.9 close to A Man Named Guido 5.10b on the Igauana Wall. It’s an example of the fine new routes being explored.
Wide Load: A once-glassy 5.9 that has been slightly re-routed, it’s the best at the grade on the Alfred Wall.
Live Bait: A fun 5.10a also found on the Alfred Wall. Many climbers use it as a warm-up that follows nine bolts.
Swan Song This is one of the best 5.10c routes at Nemo. You start on blocks on the right-hand side of the main Cat’s Tail wall and head up pumpy rock.
Red Line Fever: One of the best and most sustained 5.10s at the crag. It climbs past seven bolts up an edge before stepping right into the crack and harder climbing above.
High Society: One of the original test-piece 5.10s. It climbs up a steep wall with reachy jugs and shouldn’t be missed.
Big Bolts are for Daddy: An often overlooked climb that is a good 5.10- warm-up or project, depending on your style.
Palm Sunday: Likely the most climbed and best 5.11a at Nemo, depending on who you ask. A fun arete slab sort of climb.
Mean Streak: A sustained 5.11d past nine bolts up the Central Wall. The crux sections have requires lots of power.
Scarface: Likely the best 5.12a/b at Nemo. It climbs past eight bolts and has a number of crux sections.
Jolly Roger at Kelso
5.5, 2 pitches: Jolly Roger is a two-pitch 5.5 trad route close to Toronto at Kelso. While there are many multi-pitch climbs close to Toronto, Jolly Roger doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Bring a healthy rack and be prepared to climb juggy limestone with nice cracks. More info here.
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