New Alpine Rock Routes in Rockies
A new route went up in the Tonquin Valley and in Kananaskis Country this month
The Canadian Rockies have had some hot and smoky days, but that hasn’t stopped some climbers from making long approaches and climbing new alpine rock lines.
Veteran Calgary climbers Steve Birch and Andrew Brash have made the first ascent of Sparkling Papaya up the west buttress and ridge of the second peak of Mount Lougheed in Kananaskis Country. The mountain is famous for its long traverse and North Ridge. The eight-pitch 5.8 has a few bolts, follows compact and loose rock, has a three-hour approach and a scramble to the summit.
Lougheed has long been the focus of climbers, though only a few technical climbs exist. Tragically on July 31, 1988, local climber Brian Wallace was killed in a fall on the first ascent of the north face. Read about the tragedy here.
And farther north in the Tonquin Valley, Jasper National Park, Ethan Berman and Maarten Van Haeren made the first ascent Lunchlord Buttress, a 600-metre 5.10+ up the northeast face of Oldhorn Mountain. Check out some great photos from the team on Berman’s Instagram below.
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