New “Best Granite Multi-Pitch at the Grade” in Europe
The eight-pitch route in Switzerland has been 20 years in the making
Seb Berthe and Siebe Vanhee of Belgian have made the first free ascent of a 20-year project in Switzlerland that now goes at 5.14a. Vanhee has said it’s likely the “best granite multi-pitch of the grade in Europe.
The route is called Histoire sans Fin and it’s found on Petit Clocher du Portalet near Martigny, and the pitches break down to: 5.10, 5.13, 5.12+, 5.14a, 5.12, 5.13+, 5.13-, 5.10. The 200-metre route follows a stunning line up a steep wall on what appears to be near-perfect rock.
Didier Berthod and Francois Mathey started working on it 20 years ago, opening the second 5.13 pitch on gear. A few years ago, Fabian Borter and Bertrand Martenet bolted an extension that follows aretes and slabs to the top of the wall. Then last year, Berthod returned to help them link it all together with a wild arete at 5.13d. Berthe and Vanhee spent a few days this month piecing it together. Read more about the route below.
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